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The battery charge for the remote control should be a small number compared to the total number, but it is by no means a single case.
Since it is not a case, it should be a common problem. 
Since most of the problems do not exist, there is no problem with circuit design.
From the perspective of my remote control, the measured resistance between the positive and negative electrodes of the battery is relatively small, which may be a failure of internal components.
Based on this consideration, take a look at it.
Here is the circuit board: 
After checking the circuit, it is finally confirmed that there is a problem with the capacitor C15: 
Test removed C15: 
Such a small-capacity DC resistance should be in the mega-ohm range, which is obviously bad.
This filtered capacitor becomes the culprit for leakage.
The degree of failure of this capacitor is different. The DC resistance is different and the leakage current is not the same. This also explains why some days have leaked, and some have leaked in one or two months.
The problem was found and the solution is simple: remove it! It's that simple.
Those who are willing to make up one will make up one. Without electric iron, use a nail clipper to directly break the C15 clip on it.
There are other filter capacitors, there is no problem with the C15. In fact, during the test, I also removed the C16, tested it and got no problem, and was too lazy to solder it back.
Since C15, C16, C17, and C18 are all filter capacitors, it cannot be judged that they are all C15 problems.
If there are a few more cases of C15 failure and no other capacitor failures, then it can be determined that at least one batch of C15 purchased by the manufacturer has a problem.
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A few days ago wrote a post about the box remote control battery charge. Find the reason today.
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